Monsters Park (The Gardens of Bomarzo) – Bomarzo, Italy

Legend has it that in the 16th century a well-to-do prince commissioned artists to build a park which would showcase monster statues.  A bit unorthodox, perhaps even for the time, the park has remained a spectacle to see over the centuries.

In 1954, worn out and all but destroyed, Giovanni Bettini decided to buy the park outright.  At the behest of his wife, who had become enchanted with the territory, Giovanni set out on one of the most incredible endeavors anyone could imagine.

With a large investment in renovations, the historical site has stayed in the Bettini family since the mid-fifties.

Today, the park is visited by hundreds of people from all over the world annually.  The name “Monster Park” may strike fear in the hearts of some children, but once one walks around, it’s clear there’s no fear to be had. The statues are ominous and a bit frightening yes, but children seem to enjoy the park just as much for its creativity and uniqueness as adults do.

With more than 40 statues to be seen and searched throughout the maze of a park, once upon a time there were many others to admire. However because of the hundreds of years in between when the park was originally designed and then found after abandonment, many of the statues had either been destroyed or stolen.

What entices visitors to visit the spectacular park? The fact that there isn’t another one like it anywhere else in the world – certainly not anywhere else in Italy. The uniqueness of the park makes it a definite spot on anyone’s wish list. And speaking for myself, it was one of the most incredible parks I’ve ever visited in all of Europe. How unique is it? It’s the only park during the Renaissance era that is different from any other park in Italy from that period. Which is saying a lot. After all, it’s Italy. They invented history.

It’s not just the statues that make the park worthwhile visiting. It’s also the natural aspects of the area itself. God’s hand is even more glorious than the artistic designers who elaborately created the statues that are still mesmerizing to see to this day. But the natural beauty of the park is not to be missed. Even if one has no interest in the history of the park, the statues or any other motive for coming for a visit, a leisurely stroll in spring, summer or even fall with the simple wonders of the trees, leaves, streams and soft green moss is enough reason to purchase an entrance ticket.

Something that the park has recently renovated are the herms, which had previously been completely destroyed but are now on full display for visitors.  The park, contrary to popular belief is not owned or operated at all by the local government, and is not considered a public entity in any way. As previously mentioned the Bettini family is still very much the proud owner of the park, and Giovnanni’s grandson Marco is now the manager of the historical site.

Some other nice perks about visiting the park are a restaurant, playground area for children and a picnic area. In addition to all of this, there is also a BBQ free of charge for anyone interested in making use of it while there.

And if you’re looking for a good laugh, you can put your hand into the “Mouth of Truth” just like Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn – although this one’s much smaller and costs 1 Euro. Even if it’s a phony palm reading game, it’s fun to see what the mouth says about you. At the very least, it makes for a nice little souvenir and you can keep the paper with the “Mouth of Truth’s” embloym.

Speaking of the “Mouth of Truth”, the one in Rome dates back to 9 B.C.. But here at The Gardens of Bomarzo, you’ll find a gigantic recreation of the Roman peace symbol.  So big in fact, that more than a dozen people can fit inside the huge mouth at one time. Just make sure you don’t tell it a lie when walking in – you might not come out alive!

While the Mouth of Truth is certainly the most show-stopping and most well-known statue that Monsters Park has on display, there are other statues that are just as noteworthy.  Not only is there a giant elephant killing an ancient solider with its trunk, but there’s also a leaning house. Yes, the leaning house may be the most unsettling and disturbing piece of art at the park.  While you may be thinking since it leans, it’s somewhat reminiscent of something else that leans in Pisa – it’s not the same at all.

This house, which already makes you question your eyesight before even walking up its staircase, has a strange sensation when you enter. You feel dizzy, and at best drunk while and even minutes after being in the crazy little funhouse. Which, in some ways, isn’t really that much fun at all. It would be perfect for a Halloween party. It has a sinister vibe, and you feel unnerved walking around inside.

The most powerful point that I took away with me from Parco dei Mostri, was an interesting observation I made while there. It was the unshakable feeling I had that The Never Ending Story’s writer, Michael Ende was given some inspiration for the book from this magical park. If not the writer, then certainly director, Wolfgang Peterson, of the book’s subsequent film. Not only were so many of the statues similar to the film’s clever and unworldly imagery, but it was also some of the naturalistic aspects of the park that give one pause that perhaps there is a connection. And if not, then there’s a serious coincidence in many of the similarities.

Take for example, the tortoise toward the beginning of the film (a.k.a. Shell Mountain).  This character was exactly the same as one enormous statue of a turtle.  Or perhaps the half women, half dragons toward the end of the park’s exhibition. These were almost identical to the “Golden Globes” in the film.

And after some research, it turns out Ende was a lover of Italian culture and spent many years just outside of Rome. This perhaps gives more credence to my assured curiosity about the whole thing. Was this park the basis for The Never Ending Story? It’s a theory anyway. My theory.

So are you convinced yet that Parco dei Mostri is the place to visit while in Lazio? Go simply for a stroll through the beautiful trees, gentle breeze and absolutely tranquility that is the park. Or, spend your time enjoying the statues.  All the while realizing what one prince had the time and money to invest in nearly 500 years ago. Whatever your reasons for going to the park may be though, there’s certainly no question that it’s worth a visit. 

And when you do go, make sure to let them know that Lisa sent you!